Saturday, November 28, 2009

Travel



It's been over a month since I last posted and I feel a little guilty. In our defense though, we've been a little busy. I'll post more in detail when we have more time and internet at our disposal, but wanted to give you something.

We've been traveling now for a little over a month. We will be back in the states next week. Its a little crazy to think about, so I try not to.

We've been making our transition back to the developed world in stages: from Guinea to Mali, from Mali to Morocco, from Morocco to Spain. Each stop along the way has been progressively more developed, and with that, more expensive unfortunately.

Mali out-does Guinea by having (besides a recognized government and not having a military that rapes and kills its citizens...) advances like paved roads and electricity in most big cities. A good indicator of their development in my mind is that there is a seemingly good-sized middle class that can afford 'luxury' items like prepackaged goods and eating out. Another random advancement: animal rather than child labor. (ie: using donkey or horses to plow fields and pull carts of goods rather than children.)

Morocco was an even larger step up. We were actually quite blown away by the vast differences and the fact that it is still considered a 'developing nation.' They still rely on basics like donkeys (what else can get a load of cement through the narrow market roads? really, sometimes basic is better.) and life in the village, I'm sure, is quite different than the life I saw in the cities. But Morocco has McDonald's and a shopping mall with Versace. Yet there are still Peace Corps Volunteers there... hmmm...

Spain is developed. And extremely cold.  And extremely expensive. We spent more than a weeks wage on our dinner last night. (Granted, we were only making about $240 a month...) It's shocking to see the differences and expense in ways of life.  But we're having fun.

Here are some picture highlights of our trip so far:

Taking a 3 day boat trip up the Niger to Timbuktu.  We slept on the deck with people who were transporting their produce upriver.



We bought some turbans for desert travel.


Riding out into the Sahara on camels.

 
Sleeping out in the desert

Trying new foods -- this night it was snail soup and sheep head.
A cooking class in Marrakesh.  We learned to make a Moroccan salad and a chicken tajine with lemon.  mmmmm....


So much delicious food!  I think I would come back to Morocco just for the food...




Amazing produce and selection of foods.  Here is an olive shop in the Marrakesh market.

We'll post more when we can!

~mary

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

And we're off!

Well, if you've been following the news, Peace Corps officially suspended the volunteer program in Guinea due to all the political unrest.  Press release is here: Peace Corps Suspends Volunteer Program in Guinea

What does that mean for us?  As of Sunday, we are no longer volunteers.  We are unemployed, homeless, moneyless...  So what are we going to do?  Travel.

We're heading out tomorrow for a trip around Mali.  We figured that while we're here and so close that we should take advantage of the sites here.  We're planning on taking a boat up the Niger river to Timbuktu then head over to an area called Dogon country.  Do a google search for pictures if you're interested.  Pretty cool.  It may take a while before ours will make it on the blog...

We fly out of Bamako on November 9th to Casablanca.  We'll spend about 2 weeks touring Morocco, then fly to Spain and the Canary Islands.  We won't be having any turkey this thanksgiving.  Instead, we'll be scuba diving at the Canary Islands.  I think that's a fair exchange.  Don't worry.  We'll take lots of pictures.

After that, we'll head back down to Casablanca and fly to New York and eventually end up in Utah December 4th. 

After 2 years, I am excited and scared all at the same time to come home.  I don't know how re-entry into US life will be.  What have I missed?  Last time I left the country, I came back and there was this crazy new obsession with something called American Idol...  What will be new after the last 2 years?  Does Cafe Rio really still taste as amazing as I fantasize about?  Do such places as Target and Walmart really exist?  What will it be like to drive a car after so long and after living in a place that doesn't have recognized traffic regulations?  And snow???  I haven't worn shoes in 22 months.  That's going to be a problem.

But I know it'll be amazing and wonderful to see everyone again and be among people that understand me and where I'm coming from.  Just be gentle with me. 

See you on the other side!

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Charlie

First an Update:
Well, we're still here waiting in Bamako, Mali.  They haven't made any decisions as far as what to do with us.  We're in a holding pattern.  At least we're living it up with electricity, running water, internet.  At this point, with almost 100  volunteers all together, some are going a bit stir crazy, but we're dealing.  Peace Corps Volunteers are professionals in patience.  We'll wait because, well, that's our job.


I mentioned that we brought Charlie, our parrot with us when we were evacuated.  Fortunately for us, last month we had just found a pet carrier for him, so it wasn't a problem at all with him in the car.  We even had one of our neighbors who is a tailor make a little cover for it. 

When we got here, we also decided to try something new: taking him outside. We were a little scared that he would try to fly off, but it went very well. He was actually so spooked by all the new things around him that he didn't dare leave us.  He's such a little chicken.  But luckily he's become pretty bonded with us over this last year too.  He loves and trusts us.


Behind me you can see the huts that we're staying in here. Dan and I are sharing one near the back of the compound. They call it a 'simulated village' here. Sure.



Here he is checking out the trees.



We put some branches in our window for him to chill in, since we don't want him to stay in the carrier the whole time. He likes sitting there and watching the world go by.





Here's a view from the outside.





We're currently going through quite a bit of headache trying to figure out if we can still bring him home. It was pretty complicated before when we were just in Guinea, and now it seems nearly impossible. It'll be a miracle if we can actually get him home, but I will be so sad if I have to leave him behind at this point.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

We're out


Well, for those of you who haven't heard, things are not going well in Guinea right now.  Bad enough that it even makes the front of the NYTimes?  Maybe it was just a slow news day...

In a Guinea Seized by Violence, Women Are Prey - Front page NYTimes article

Guinea’s Capital Fades Into a Ghost Town After Soldiers’ Rampage - Another good summary article from the NYTimes

Eyewitness Report - BBC report

People are calling the events a massacre.  It shocked everyone.

Considering all the political trauma and difficulties, they pulled out all of us Peace Corps volunteers.  We were brought to Bamako, Mali to consolidate and wait.   Even so, after the incidents of last week, things have been calm outside of Conakry.  It was life as normal where we were.  Not unsafe at all.  Everyone was just a little tense about what was going to happen.  (Gas stations closed, black market gas price skyrocketed and some shops had little in stock.)  But for now it is mainly political, not safety issues that they're worried about.  Either way, it was difficult to have to rush off as you watch everyone going about their daily routine.  Everyone said they understood why we had to go, but I know they were questioning why.  And none of our Guinean friends have the option to leave like we did...

We're not really sure whats going to happen next.  They told us we are going to wait here in Bamako for 2 to 4 weeks to see how things play out.  Unfortunately for us, we were supposed to be out in two months any way.  Even if they give us the all clear to go back soon, we don't think it will be worth it for us.  We had already started packing our bags.  Literally.  Going back at this point for a month would just be painful in more ways than I think we could handle.  It was hard getting ripped out the way we did, without real closure and goodbyes, but going back just to rush out again wouldn't make it easier.

Leaving itself was... well.. crazy and exhausting.  A Peace Corps car came to pick us up early Tuesday morning and we were off.  We had 27 hours of traveling over two days, even though it was only about 750 miles.  I had a GPS on, so I'll post the stats later so you can see our voyage.  It could have been worse.  No real problems, just the typical African headaches of terrible roads, crammed cars (11 people in a Toyota Land Cruiser...), police roadblocks, miscommunication, tedious 3 hours of ordeals at the border, etc, etc, etc.  We brought Charlie our parrot through it all too.  He was a trooper.  If we actually get him back to the US, its going to be a miracle. 

We'll wait around here for as long as they let us and then probably travel for a bit.  Maybe a couple weeks here in Mali, maybe other neighboring countries, then a bit in Morocco, then home by the beginning of December?  We'll see.  It's all up in the air.  We'll keep you updated as we figure it out.

We're staying in a pretty nice place (ok... nice for our new standards... picture summer camp.)  But we've got running water, electricity, ceiling fans in our huts, good food, wifi... all a hard-up PCV could want.  We're going to the American club today for swimming and cheeseburgers.  Amazing.  Museum and a Mali vs Sudan soccer game on Sunday.  Should be fun times.  It's almost kind of an all expense paid vacation by Peace Corps.  Even though its a terribly crappy situation, they're making it the best they can for us.  In any case, we'll have daily internet access, so I'd love to hear from all of you.  I'll write more later and post some pics, so keep in touch!

*pictures from the BBC and NYT articles

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Road Conditions

Road conditions in Guinea are iffy at best. We're lucky because the road to our town from the capital is paved... mostly. Two of the five hour drive is like what you see in this video. Even though it is technically "paved," it is so potholed and beat up that you spend all of your time swerving between holes, driving on the wrong side of the road, or, as in this video, driving completely off the road on the shoulder since the road isn't worth the trouble. I get motion sick sometimes, especially when I'm in a car that's going too fast or when the windows are up and it gets too stuffy in the over crowded cars. Even so, we're lucky compared to the road situations most of the other volunteers have to put up with.

This was in our nice Peace Corps car coming down to Conakry. Since it's Ramadan, they don't listen to music. What you hear is a tape of someone reading the Koran. Try listening to that for 5 hours straight. (My heart goes out to the volunteers who make 14+ hour trips listening to nothing but this... I guess that's what ipods are for though, right?)

Monday, September 14, 2009

On Banks in Guinea

Raven and Dan counting Guinean francs for girls' conference--less than $2,000.
Like a lot of things in less-developed countries, certain things we notice aren't necessarily bad, but they do strike us as strange or different. The banking system definitely took some getting used to, but it works in this milieu.

One thing that is nice about the bank is that it is one of the only public places that has electricity and air conditioning whenever it is open. It is really spacious with high ceilings and looks relatively modern and clean.

The first thing you notice is that there are no designated lines--none of those roped off areas to keep the clientele organized. It is absolute madness--everyone rushes the reception desk and gathers around pushing their way to be the next person helped. So, needless to say, there is absolutely no privacy. Everyone around you knows exactly how much you have in your account and how much you want to withdraw. They don't even try to keep it quiet--they practically yell the information to you over the noise.

Also, do you remember those large metal trunks you use at scout camp or in the army? That is what they use as a safe in a separate, but still open room--not even behind the counter. The original bank in our town actually burned down a couple of years ago due to an electrical fire so maybe it had an actual safe, but I doubt it.

So, after you write a check to yourself or have the "teller" write one for you, you sign it in ten different places. Then you go to the money window which is also madness as everyone gathers around waiting for their money. The bank teller there is wearing a bio safety protection mask--I think you can imagine all the crazy germs you'll find on the money here. You sign the check again and they do their obligatory count in front of you.

You get your large wad of cash--and it will always be a brick because their largest bill is worth about $2. So, when you take out a couple hundred dollars it adds up. They put them in neat stacks of 10 bills with the 10th bill folded in half around the other 9 and then they put those stacks into groups of ten rubber banded together for a total of a hundred bills. Then you do your obligatory recount to make sure nothing was snagged or miscounted, which always takes forever with so many bills. They rarely deal in coins since their only coin is only worth about 5 cents.

The bank network we use has one ATM in country in downtown Conakry. I actually got a personal checkbook so I could write checks to myself. Recently, I tried to close a bank account and I ended up going to three different branches to close it, since you have to go the bank where you originally created it. Peace Corps opened the account for me, so I had no idea. But it was a fun walk around Conakry. But overall, messing with the bank hasn't been that bad. Luckily, I only have to go every couple of months, but I'm still on a first-name basis with the tellers. I don't think you get that in the States very often.

West African Flooding

Guinea isn't the only country in West Africa battling the rains right now.  Here are a couple good BBC articles about the current flooding happening all over West Africa:

Senegal battles rising tides
By Will Ross, BBC News, Dakar

Getting to bed is a nightly assault course for Mamadou Mbaye and his family in the Senegalese capital. Their home in Dakar's Guediawaye suburb is under water and piles of precariously balanced rocks form stepping stones between the flooded rooms.
"There is nothing we can do. We just have to live with the water," says Mr Mbaye, adding that they do not sleep alone as they now have plenty of mosquitoes for company.
"This has been happening for the past few years. But we are poor and we can't do anything about it.
"I've lived here for 49 years. We were born here and we brought up our children here so we don't want to leave."

Climate change
The recent heavy rain in Dakar has been too much for the city's drainage systems which are often inadequate, blocked or non-existent.
At times roads have become impassable and people in flash saloon cars look jealously as the more practical horse and cart clip-clops, or more accurately splish-splashes, past.
Residents of Dakar point out that the quantity of rain that has fallen during the past five or six years has been far higher than before.
Analysts suggest climate change is having an impact but it is not the only cause of the flooding.
As people have rushed from the villages to live in Senegal's mushrooming capital, many have built on land which is unsuitable and is susceptible to flooding.
Residents in Guediawaye say that even if they pump the water out of their homes, the rooms quickly fill up again as water comes straight up through the ground - so high is the level of the groundwater.
"This is a very hard place to live. Because of the water everybody is sick - the old and the young," says 28-year-old Elimane Diop.
"We are not helped by our government - all we get is words but they don't do anything.
"They come near here by car and then announce that they have visited the area but we want them to help the people living here. If people want to move they should be helped and if they want to stay they should also get help."
 
Exaggerated impact?
Many residents in the flood-affected areas have directed their anger at the government which stayed remarkably quiet about the floods until President Abdoulaye Wade returned from his month-long vacation in France.
The government then appealed for help as it announced that more than 250,000 were affected - a figure which the United Nations repeated but had little means of verifying.
Some observers suggest the government figures are a little on the high side and could be part of an effort to attract aid to make some political gains in a city where the opposition swept to victory in local elections earlier this year.
In 2007 Ghanaian officials were accused of a similar tactic when they said entire villages in the north of the country had been wiped off the map by floods.
It turned out to be a gross exaggeration.
When governments are shouting for help and aid agencies are shouting for funding, it can at times be hard for journalists to be sure they are being presented with an accurate assessment.
Whatever the figures, for the people battling with the floods, the sight of more heavy clouds is a great worry.
In mainly Muslim Senegal, this has been a difficult holy month of Ramadan.
People have been pounded by rain and have also been plunged into darkness after the national electricity company, Senelec, failed to pay the bill to import fuel for the power plants.
 
'Worrisome'
Across the region, the UN says 600,000 people have been affected by the floods since June.
This is a cumulative figure and therefore is not a snapshot of the current situation.
The UN says "affected" refers to people who have been displaced as well as those who are not able to get on with their lives as normal - for example cooking and studying.
The UN says 100 people have died in the floods, most of them in Sierra Leone. Burkina Faso has also been hard hit.
"It is not as bad as two years ago when 800,000 people were affected but it is worrisome as we have a few more weeks to go of the rainy season," said Yvon Edoumou a spokesman for the UN's humanitarian agency, OCHA.
And while West Africa has been hit by floods, the east of the continent is suffering from a drought - twin battles which analysts say will become more common as a result of climate change.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Swept Away

Here is a video of someone's water jugs getting swept away in the flash flood. Everyone watching was quite entertained by the spectacle.


Luckily with a little help the woman was able to retrieve all the jugs before they got completely swept away.


Why nothing gets done in the rainy season...

It's the rainy season in Guinea now. People live at the mercy of the elements here. Yesterday I got caught in a flash flood while trying to go to one of the neighborhood markets in Conakry. When I left the house, there was no rain. By the time I got to the market, it was sprinkling. I stopped by a tailor to drop off some fabric and by the time I was ready to go, it was pouring. I thought I'd wait for it to ease up, but instead, the situation got worse.


Unfortunately, cities are not prepared for large downpours. There are some ditches for runoff, but unfortunately, they usually get filled with trash and eroded dirt, making the water spill over. And in a case such as a major downpour like today, there is just nowhere for that quantity of water to go. It just overflows the ditches and streets like a raging river, flowing down in the quickest path towards the ocean it can. Since there are no real sewer and advanced plumbing systems either, this means everything gets swept up. Raging rivers of sheer filth.

The rain started letting up, but the river still raged. It was strong enough at its peak to push grown men off their feet. Traffic was a gridlock. After waiting for over an hour and a half, you could start to see the road again under the river. Cars and people started to tentatively move. I made a break for it, grabbed a few things from the corner store for lunch, and wadded back to the house. Once back, I immediately took a shower and tried to disinfect the lower half of my body...

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Just a funny bush taxi story...

Mary and I were taking a bush taxi from Kamsar to our home a couple of weeks ago. Taxi drivers usually stop for random personal reasons, but rarely explain anything to the passengers. This time, the taxi driver felt compelled to tell us that he had to take a back road to get some containers full of oil. It didn't seem too out of the ordinary so we just said it was okay.

After driving forever on this backroad he goes to turn back on the main road and there is a military woman telling him to pull over. It seemed that the taxi driver took the back road to avoid the military checkpoint. He explained to the woman that the prefet asked him to get some oil. She asked where the oil was and he said it was coming. The driver told the woman that another guy at the checkpoint was aware of the situation, so they went to find the military guy who came and said it was okay and that they could pass. It all seemed really sketchy to say the least.

We continued and never did get any oil. We can only assume the rest of that story...

some pics of bush taxis

Friday, September 11, 2009

Rainy Season Photos

The back alley leading to my new office--an enjoyable walk everyday.

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The main road I take to work everyday--sometimes in a taxi, but mainly on foot.

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The new office for my NGO--CEFACAM. It is much nicer and quieter than the one we used downtown. It was furnished with tables, desks, chairs, fans, computer, printer, etc. by a large refinery called Guinea Alumina owned by BHP Billiton. Currently we are giving business classes and consultations. We hope to start a grasscutter (bush rat) raising project soon to benefit small businesses in the surrounding villages.

Monday, September 07, 2009

Top Ten. Go Guinea...



The 2009 Failed State Index was released in July. It is an annual study done by The Fund for Peace in collaboration with Foreign Policy magazine. Guinea's back in the top ten this year, down from 11 last year. (Unlike your score in golf, smaller is NOT better...) Guinea has been going back and forth between 11th and 9th place for the past several years, so this is not a huge change. Nevertheless, it gives you an insight as to what kind of place we are living in right now.

Joining us in the top ten, in order, are:
1. Somalia
2. Zimbabwe
3. Sudan
4. Chad
5. Democratic Republic of the Congo
6. Iraq
7. Afghanistan
8. Central African Republic
9. GUINEA!
10. Pakistan

Here is a link to the complete index with interactive map and breakdown.
Failed State Index

Here is a very interesting article they wrote explaining the index.
Article about Failed State Index

It's all just a bunch of numbers though that can be looked at in so many different ways, so take it for what you will. You all know what they say about statistics... But seeing it as we do, we know for sure there is still plenty of truth in it somewhere.

Anyone notice that the US isn't a dark green as one would have guessed?

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Friday, August 28, 2009

political update

It's been a while since we've mentioned anything about the political situation here, so thought it was time for an update.

Up until now there really wasn't too much to update people on anyway: basically everyone was just waiting. The coup leaders kept saying they wanted to hold elections soon but they needed money. They now say they have enough money to hold elections, but don't have enough time to organize it all before the end of the year. Instead, they have set the presidential election date as January 31st, 2010. Fingers are crossed.


Dadis (the coup leader) has said repeatedly that he won't run for office, but now even that is looking like a possibility. Who knows.


Anyway, just wanted to offer an update for anyone who cares. Here is a BBC artical about it as well.


Guinea coup leader sets poll date

The army officer who seized power in a coup in Guinea has said presidential polls will be held on 31 January 2010 and elections for parliament in March.


Capt Moussa Dadis Camara took over within hours of the death of Guinea's long-term ruler, President Lansana Conte, in December.


He had promised to hold elections this year, saying none of the junta members would stand.
Last week his supporters formed a movement urging him to stand.

Capt Camara, who declared himself "president of the republic" the day after the coup, has maintained he has no intention of clinging to power.

His rule has been characterised by eccentric displays of power - such as forcing members of the elite presidential guard to beg for forgiveness on national TV after they roughed up a veteran soldier.


Published: 2009/08/18 11:09:16 GMT
© BBC MMIX


A BBC audio commentary on this:

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Girls Conference


Every year, volunteers in Guinea try to organize regional Girls Conferences. This year, ours was a four day event held in our town for girls aged 14 to 18. All of the volunteers in our region invited one or two girls from their villages to come spend 4 days learning about various girl-specific topics. We covered topics like the role of women and women's rights, scholarship and education, public speaking, family planning, AIDS, excision (aka female genital mutilation, read this wikipedia article if you want to learn something about it), environmental protection, etc. A little bit of everything. It was a bit of a headache trying to organize and carry out, but it was a great experience for the girls to get out of their villages, meet other girls, learn, and have an opportunity to have a little fun.

Gender roles here in Guinea are very much ingrained in society. According to custom, it's the women's role to cook, clean, raise the children, and follow orders. Many women are breaking that mold today, but the process is slow and difficult. The one thing we can try to do is educate the younger generations and hope for their future.

We were only able to have 21 girls attend the conference, but one of our messages to them was to go home and share what they learned in their communities. We want them to be confident role models for their friends. Already one of the girls Dan and I invited enthusiastically told me about how she talked to her family and even a random woman at the water pump about the problems with excision. One of her young cousins is supposed to get excised this summer. In talking with her family about it, she convinced one of her uncles to help her talk to the other aunt about not going through with it. I'm not expecting a miracle, but I'm proud of her enthusiasm and her courage in wanting to share what she now knows. Trying to stop such a long ingrained ritual isn't going to happen over night (or anytime in the near future), but the fact that we helped her stop and think and want to share makes me encouraged for the future.


The girl with the green head scarf is the one I was talking about. She is one of our neighbors and the oldest daughter of Dr. Bah, our close friend who recently died in a motorcycle accident.



Dan had the chance to video tape some during the conference. The last day of the conference, while the girls were visiting professional women at work, he put together a short summery film to show them. That evening, we rented out a "video club" (aka Guinean-style movie theater) and watched it. Everyone loved it. We'll try to get it up on youtube or something. We also showed them the HIV/AIDS video that Dan helped produce earlier this year.


I just wanted to post this picture so you could see what a Guinean movie theater is like. Normally it'd be packed (and very smelly). You come to a video club to watch the news, the latest soccer match, or an awesome Chuck Norris/Jackie Chan action film. Personally owned television sets are few and far between, so this is what you get.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Tastes like Popcorn

Everything seems to come in seasons and waves here in Guinea. One week there will be an infestation of little red bugs. A couple weeks later, tiny baby frogs will be under foot every second. After that might be the caterpillars. Well, a couple weeks ago was the night of the flying termites. (I think it was the night after one of the first big rains. Maybe that was their signal to come out.)

Our electricity situation has been better recently and our porch light was on that night. In the morning our porch was completely covered with wings and giant termites. They had also crawled under the door and gotten everywhere in the house. I got out the broom and swept them into a large pile in the yard. (Sorry... I didn't think to take a picture.) Later on, the guard's niece came up with a bowl to collect them. "Biti!" she excitedly exclaimed. "A nyaroun!" They're delicious!

She was going to eat the disgusting bugs that I had spent all morning sweeping out of our house. And she called them delicious. Dan, not wanting to miss out on a great cultural experience asked if he could try some when she was done frying them.

Here's a little video of what he thought of them. Meanwhile, I'm (not) sorry to report that my gag reflex prevented me from participating in this cultural exchange.


Sunday, July 26, 2009

The Chicken Story

A short clip of the chicken in our kitchen, hiding behind our bikes. (Yes, where else would you put your bikes?)

Free Egg Delivery


A couple weeks ago we had a chicken dilemma. For several days the same chicken came up on our porch and stared into our kitchen. We'd shoo her away, but she'd always come back. One day while Dan was getting lunch ready, she snuck in. She silently sat in the corner and was only noticed when he heard a faint rustling sound. He tried to shoo her away, but she was stubborn and refused to move. He finally resorted to force and then discovered why she had been so determined to stay: she was laying an egg.



This scenario continued for the next several days. We gave up chasing her and finally just let her stay to do her business. Every day she laid one new egg. We gave the first three to Fascine, the guard in our compound who tends the chickens. She came back the next day, searching everywhere to find her eggs. We thought that might be the end, but no. She finally gave up looking and sat to lay another. Every day she came back at the same time. When the door was closed or she couldn't get in, she would get frantic - flapping and squawking at the door until she was allowed in. She laid 4 more eggs.

(Random side note: most of the eggs we get and eat here are brown. Apparently there are all sorts of different colored eggs you can get from different breeds of chickens. The way to tell what color they will be is by looking at the chicken's ear lobes. Really. Take a look.)


One day while she was busy doing her thing in the corner, Dan and I had to go into town. (As discovered before, trying to disturb her before she was ready to leave wasn't a good idea...) We decided to leave her and just lock the door. Bad idea. Never leave a chicken locked in your kitchen. By the time we got home, she had pooped on our table, walked in it, and walked over everything else. She didn't seem to happy about it and neither were we. After that, we were gone for the next 4 days in a row for girls conference. We haven't seen her since, so we assume that during our absence she either a) gave up trying to get in and found a new place to lay her eggs b) was overly traumatized by being locked in and never wanted to come back c) was eaten by a snake or d) was eaten by a human. In any case, we enjoyed a delicious omelet breakfast from her eggs.

Thursday, June 04, 2009

A recent BBC article about Guinea

Fury at Guinea 'burn thief' idea

A senior member of Guinea's military government has been criticised after he called for robbers to be burnt alive.
Human rights groups said the idea by Capt Moussa Tiegoro Camara, in charge of fighting crime and drug trafficking, was "unacceptable" and "intolerable".
Capt Camara had said the country's prisons were full already and it was better to kill those who killed others.
But the Guinean Organisation of Human Rights said the laws of the country should not be by-passed.
"I am asking you to burn alive armed bandits who are caught red-handed," Capt Camara said at a meeting discussing security measures in the capital, Conakry, on Tuesday, reported Reuters news agency.
"Our jails and our correctional centres can no longer take in people and the situation cannot carry on like this."
Correspondents say lawlessness in the capital, Conakry, has risen in recent months.
Since seizing power after the death of Guinea's long-serving leader Lansana Conte at the end of December, the military has made fighting the drug trade and corruption a priority.


Story from BBC NEWS: http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/pr/fr/-/2/hi/africa/8082532.stm
Published: 2009/06/04 08:06:00 GMT

Saturday, May 30, 2009

The AIDS Film Shoot

February 2009

I had a long month of shooting a documentary on AIDS Associations in Guinea. The theme was "overcoming stigmatisation and discrimination." We traveled throughout Guinea starting in Conakry. I must say that making a film in Guinea was ten times more difficult than making a film back in the States. Here, you have to deal with bribes, protocol, political issues, approvals from way too many people, etc. You have all of that in the States, but to a lesser degree. Anyways, here are a few photos from the trip.

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Here is the film crew in Gueckedou where we found one of the most organized associations in Guinea. The sound guy Billy had a crush on Jacqui, another volunteer helping with the film and she said she would go on a date with him if he was able to solve my rubic's cube--he still hasn't been on a date with her.




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(Conakry) Here is a photo from Nostalgie radio station where we had to pay a bribe because they said they were "taking a risk" by letting us film a controversial story that they were airing on the radio.

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(Conakry) Here is Kim and Jacqui, the production managers on the film shoot standing in front of one of the only tanks in Guinea. We had to be kind of sly since taking pictures of military stuff is "interdit."


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Here is another picture of us doing a "group interview" in Gueckedou.
(Gueckedou) I like this shot because it looks like some sort of CD cover shot with our posse behind us. The lady between Jacqui and I is the director--Mariama Camara.





Thursday, May 28, 2009

Solar power

April 25, 2009



We haven't given any updates recently about our electricity situation, but it's not good. Remember when we were so excited to get electricity at our house? Well, that really didn't last long. We went from having it most nights of the week, to a few nights a week, to one night a week, and now one night every other week. Not so good. Still, we can't complain since it's something, which most volunteers can't say. What really gets to me though is that they still charge us the same rate. (about $8) That's a lot here, especially when you get nothing in return.



Before we had electricity, we would take our cell phones and other electronics to the DPS (health department) to charge them since they have a solar panal. Now the solar panal isn't working though so we no longer have that option. Since we're in a big town, we do at least have the option of dropping off our cell phones to be charged at a 'tele-center' where you can pay to have it charged off a generator for 30 cents or so. When we don't want to do that though, this is our other option:

The fan looking thing is called a solio. It's a small solar panal that can charge our cell phones. The only problem is that we don't have a direct adapter for it, so this is the complicated contraption we had to come up with to actually use it. And in the process we're probably only getting a small percentage of the energy we should. But again, its better than nothing!


Leaving it out in the sun allllll day gives it about 1/2 a charge which will power my cell phone for about an hour or 2.


This picture also shows off our awesome new fence! We'll have to get some better pictures of it, but we are pretty excited about having a little bit of privacy now. Living in a public government compound was not easy...


You can also see our wonderful solar dryer. We've been drying mangoes like crazy! It's been hard not to eat them all imediately because they're so delicious, but we've managed to save quite a bit. We've also experimented by drying coconut, papaya, carrots, and bananas.


I was so excited to find these carrots in our local market one day. You can occasionally find carrots brought into our market from the capital, but those are expensive. These were local carrots, which meant they were smaller, but much less expensive. I bought 60. Yes, 60. We made half into soup for lunch and dinner and dried the other half. It was quite a bit of work, but it turned out great.
This is what we had by the end of the day. It's always slightly depressing when you put so much work into something just to see it shrivel up to practically nothing, but it was worth it. I know it'll be wonderful to have some carrots in the middle of the rainy season when the markets are looking a little bare.